Carpenters scribe12/28/2023 ![]() ![]() In your head you’re making all sorts of calculations, visualizing the layout and location of different joints, all the while keeping vigilant not to make simple mistakes. This is the kind of mistake that is really easy to make, and is what makes laying out a building one of the most stressful tasks for a carpenter. and the number I wrote is wrong! I read 200 off of my ruler, but the actual measurement is 100 mm. Hence in the picture below I wrote the distance from the reference line to the desired finished shoulder location…. The whole point of using a refence line is so that in case you’re layout gets cut away around the joint you still have some way of measuring the distance. On larger beams where the surface may be much more uneven, the shoulder might be an unreliable reference point, in which case working off the centerline is a much better way to go, and I’ll try to explain that process in more detail later. ![]() Like the bench that I recently built, I knew that the final size of the round mortised piece would be more or less consistent, so in this situation referencing the shoulder works just fine. In the picture above I set a reference line at 100 mm from my desired finished shoulder. Centerline layout works great particularly when you’re working with uneven surfaces or material of varying dimension. Using a center line is usually more ideal on larger structures like buildings since most of the structure will be laid out relative to each post and beams center, vs western timber framing which often uses the surface of a given framing member as a reference. On a building the reference line is often laid out relative to a center line, but in this case I’m laying the reference line relative to the shoulder. When doing carpentry, one of the ways I learned to keep track of where the tenon piece should finally end up relative to the mortised piece, is to use a reference line. And some more layout for the piece with the tenon. That way the tenon will stick out about 4mm.īelow you can see the mortise after cutting. The tenon will be a through tenon so I drew a shoulder line at about 42 mm from the end of the stick. Here is the layout for the tenon, sized to match the mortise. The overall size of the piece is about 38mm square and after cutting the mortise I will turn it round on the lathe. Here is the layout for the mortise which is 25mm long by 10mm wide. So for the sake of demonstrating scribing I cut up a couple pieces of scrap Japanese chestnut and layed out some joinery. The process I will show here is aimed at joining two pieces of wood together when there are uneven surfaces involved, but essentially the same concepts apply when scribing wood to any uneven surface such as stones. In this post I thought I’d cover more of the process of scribing.
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